Following the good vibes from our first extended bike tour last year to Glacier/Waterton Lakes National Parks my father and I decided to plan our own tour this year. After some poking around online we found that there is a 109 mile Rails to Trail route called the Mickelson Trail in northwestern South Dakota (the Black Hills) close to Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse and a number of other local attractions.
Brian and my housemates, Gabrielle and Geoff, decided to join in as well. In fact, Gabrielle, Geoff and Brian in their own ways heavily contributed to the course we followed. Geoff turns out to be a navigator extraordinaire, Gabrielle is quite a good organizer, and Brian optimized our route to increase the attraction to mileage ratio. At times it seemed like my father and I were just along for the ride!
My father and I Garmin-ed it up and here is most of the route we followed:

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/825350749
The total mileage was only in the 200 mile range over the five days, but according to our devices we climbed a total of 14,553ft and I would guess we rode on dirt for about a third of the ride. Thus it was still a challenge.
The saga actually began back in the Bay Area when we decided to outfit our mountain bikes for the tour. None of our bikes were designed for rear racks, so getting the right gear for our self-contained camping tour was a creative process. It involved Geoff machining pieces for my bike and that itself shows what a pain it was. Packing up the bikes, especially Geoff’s dual suspension monster, was also another fun adventure that I will not detail here. All the bikes did arrive safely at our home base: Rapid City, South Dakota, where a friendly local bike shop, Acme Bicycles, received and assembled them.
We flew into Rapid City under the care of a loopy flight attendant, a self proclaimed “lassie from Tallahassee.” Even though she incorrectly informed us of the destination city and time, we in fact landed in Rapid City and made it to the bike shop before they closed. We rode out from Rapid City the following day to our northernmost point, Deadwood. It was warm and slow going our first day riding and we covered a fair amount of ground so by the time we made it to Whistler Gulch Campground in Deadwood we headed straight for dinner. (Though not before we made a pit-stop at the Chubby Chipmunk Chocolate shop where they have a truffle vending machine called the Chub-o-matic!)

Chubb-o-matic truffle vending machine!
We discovered that night that thunder and lightening are a nightly occurrence in these parts. We all arose around 1am and started frantically collecting up clothes and gear that would have been drenched by the eminent downpour. The following nights the downpours came, but we snuggled in our warm, dry tents with all our gear packed away. Fortunately, it never rained during the day. Unfortunately it was so hot and sunny we slathered on the sunscreen which made us especially ripe at the end of a long, dusty, ride. Thank goodness for campsite showers and the occasional laundromat.

Fresh and ready to start Day 1
We officially started on the Mickelson Trail our second day of riding. The northernmost 30-ish miles are probably the most scenic (we never made it to the southern end of the Mickelson Trail, but we hear it isn’t as good). We went through rolling hills, a lot of mining history, abandoned towns and four tunnels before we made it to Hill City. We took the entire day to get there. It could have had something to do with the great beaver debate just outside of Rocheford. The biking guide maintained there were beavers in these parts, but the rodents we saw were quite far away and it is possible my eyes saw what the heart desired, and that was a beaver. Later we had a funny, yet mildly frightening cow encounter. There was a herd of cows grazing where the trail cut through a partial valley. Instead of passing by unheeded we managed to encourage them to encircle us in a moo-ing chorus. They were literally trotting in front of us and behind us and to the side.

Potential Beaver

Battle of the Cows
When we arrived in Hill City we decided to slow down the pace and bike a short day down to Custer which is the gateway to two natural attractions to which we paid a visit: Jewel Cave National Monument and Custer State Park. On our way down to Custer we stopped briefly for photos of Crazy Horse, a massive (and unfinished), privately funded carving of a historically prominent Native American chief that rivals the engineering feat of Mt. Rushmore. Because we wanted to make it to the Jewel Cave before closing we did not linger long here. We barely made it to the Jewel Cave before their last two tours sold out. Brian, my father and I took the “wheelchair friendly” tour and Gabrielle and Geoff took the Historic Lantern Tour. They biked a little further down the road to the entrance of where the Jewel Cave was discovered and took oil lamps down the steep steps where volunteers are still discovering new passages through the cave network. They also saw a dead, moldy bat.

Wheelchair friendly tour of the Jewel Cave
After gorging ourselves night and day, we left the Mickelson Trail in lieu of a route through Custer State Park. This was the highlight of the trip for me. Geoff took us through an exciting, muddy forest road where we saw a small herd of four legged creatures we think were elk (maybe Gabrielle’s eyes were tricking her too). For a portion of this adventure we followed the Centennial Trail. Since this day was so short we had time to make it down to the lake by the campsite for a dip. It was a nice way to cool off.

Custer State Park proved to be more spectacular than I expected. We rode up Needles Highway through a tortuous road hugged by granite spires and multiple tunnels, one just over 8ft wide. Needless to say the traffic was light and almost as slow as we were. We ended up at the popular Slyvan Lake for the night thanks to Gabrielle’s organization. Here Gabrielle, Geoff and I tooled around on kayaks for a bit before we all hiked up to Little Devil’s Tower, just shy of Harney Peak, South Dakota’s highest point. This evening we rode over to a cloth-napkined restaurant for dinner where they served us their Californian house wine.

Granite Spires

We kayaked while they took a short hike.
The next morning, being completely out of snacks and food from grocery store visits, we raided the provisions at the bare-bones general store and ended up with cookies, candy, mini sandwiches, Pop-Tarts etc.. We were not spared the judgmental looks from passer-bys as we loaded up with junk food, despite being clad in bike clothes with helmets by our sides. Somehow we felt justified.
Our last day riding we passed through Mt. Rushmore National Memorial. As you may expect, it was not as glorious as one makes it out to be. We showed up, shrugged our shoulders and bought ice cream made from Thomas Jefferson’s own recipe.

JT Ice cream. The highlight of Mt. Rushmore.

Us as the presidents.
When we arrived back in Rapid City, Kelly from Acme Bicycles offered to take us to the Badlands National Park the next day. It was insanely hot. Those fur trappers from the 1800’s weren’t joking about these lands being “bad.” We managed to go for a short hike despite the heat. It was bleak, but beautiful. We drove through the rest of the park looking for bison to no avail. Though we did see hundreds of prairie dogs at Prairie Dog Town!

Badlands National Park

When we started to plan the trip we toyed with the idea of extending the ride out to the Badlands, but we decided we wouldn’t have the time. So it was a nice surprise in the end that we made it there. Like much of the trip everything just seemed to work out.

Mid-trip group shot up Needles Highway
Good company = Good times.
Denver to Rapid City with the lassie from Tallahassee
Fresh and ready to start Day 1
Lunch just outside of Nemo Day 1
Gabrielle being a boss!
Chubb-o-matic truffle vending machine!
Only flat on the trip! Gabby rode over a rock.
Cyanide can lids used for shingles and siding from the old mining days.
Battle of the Cows
Crazy Horse (still unfinished)
Gabby and Geoff too cool for us
Grazing bison on the way to Jewel Cave
Wheel-chair friendly tour of the Jewel Cave
Custer State Park
Custer State Park
White-tailed deer in Custer State Park
Forest Road in Custer State Park
Rolling through Custer State Park
We made it through the muddy bit!
Brian relaxing in the hammock that we carried in addition to the tent!
Campside Center Lake
Walk around Center Lake
Our first nice campsite
On our way up Needles Highway
Mid-trip group shot up Needles Highway
Granite Spires
Waiting to go through a very narrow tunnel. Glad we were on bikes!
Needle’s Eye
Kayaking on Sylvan Lake
Hiking up to Little Devil’s Tower
Brian at Little Devil’s Tower
Gabrielle and Geoff and their signature hand signal
Down the switchbacks!
Us as the presidents.
All our Ortliebs!
Badlands National Park
Us with Kelly at Badlands National Park
Brian just super happy to be off the bike
Only tripped once.
Gabby and Geoff shared a Kindle and this mobile device for entertainment.
Northern part of the Mickelson Trail
Deciding what to do about the cows
Lunch in Mystic
Historic Jewel Cave entrance
Glad we were on bikes!
Made it through!
We kayaked while they took a short hike.
JT Ice cream. The highlight of Mt. Rushmore.
Gabby at the Badlands